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TajikistanIt is impossible to sum up a country in a few words and yet we are often required to do so, especially when asked "so what is it like where you live...?" Tajikistan is a frontier country, its history heavily influenced by Asia and Europe, by Tamerlane and Alexander the Great. In the 20th Century, Russia and the Soviet Union helped shape Tajikistan into the country we see today. Yet Tajikistan has been formed more by the geography of the country than by any other aspect. 93% of the land area is considered mountainous. Snow fall from October to April blocks important mountain passes making travel by land from one valley to another difficult or impossible. Distinct languages have evolved in these isolated valleys. The forced isolation has enabled Tajik's to develop their creativity and produce exotic music, to retain the arts of poetry and drama. Even in the cities, when you break away from the main streets you quickly find yourself in another land. Children, bare footed, play in the alley ways, the girls in brightly patterned dresses. Sellers of bread are everywhere, the common loaf is a flat, round disc which is the staple diet of all Tajik's. In the spring and summer you might see fruit sellers wandering from gate to gate calling out for people to buy strawberries, apricots or plums, whatever happens to be in season.
If you are fortunate enough to experience Tajik hospitality you will remember it forever. On special occasions and often when a family has guests, the women will be kept separate from the men. A feast will be laid out on a table cloth that has been spread out usually on the floor but sometimes on a small raised table. Large flat discs of bread, piles of pomegranate, sharon fruit, apricots and pears, bowls of walnuts and pistachios. Green or black tea will be served whatever the temparature outside. A novice to this sight will often eat heartily not realising it is best to pace oneself. The traditional dish of rice, carrots and lamb that has all been boiled in oil will usually be served on special occasions.
The following photos were taken of Nurek dam and the nearby hills and rivers. Tajikistan is a source of water for many of the surrounding countries. Huge glaciers feed the many rivers and soil errosion carries tons of valuable minerals down stream. It is said that companies are competing for a chance to dredge the silt that has collected behind Nurek dam in order to extract the gold and other precious minerals it contains.
Throughout the year the sky is usually a deep blue and outside of the cities the air is rare and seems charged with energy. It is as if the mountains call out for people to explore. Many women choose to wear traditional dresses some days, western clothes on others. I had wanted to take a photo of this monument in Dushanbe and am grateful to these women who were willing to pose for me.
When winter arrives it often does so suddenly. In December 1997 I arrived in Dushanbe to find farmers worried about the unseasonal heat. A few days later we had 48 hours of snow and the city was transformed.
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© Mark Smith 2000-2009